Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Hey! Another Galliano pirate jacket update already!

Here are the previous posts about this project if you're just seeing it for the first time:
Pattern cutting
First update
... and here's what I have done. It's looking pretty close to actual clothing at this point!
(I tend to sew at night and snapped these photos quickly, so please excuse the quality)

As you can see, the biggest difference from last time is that I added twill tape binding along most of the edges. This bottom square edge... I don't know... I wanted to skip the binding so it echos the neck/shoulder edge, but it's doing a silly wiggling thing that I'm not pleased with. I think I will rip out the top-stitching on it, re-cut slightly, and bind it instead. Speaking of the binding, I realized while cleaning up some chalk marks that it's probably not color fast. Well damn. Guess I'm never washing this.

I've added a shoulder strap out of twill tape instead of the gathered strap that came with the pattern and elastic in the neckline edge that was gaping last time. I might still make the original strap and have it attach onto the twill tape. I thought adding the elastic might cause some weird pulling but it actually worked out pretty well.

You can kind of see the tab in the neckline with a strap angling downward. I really wanted this strap to go across my chest under the arm but angled it too much. I don't have the patience to re-do it, especially considering this white striped fabric is just shredding on the edges and there was already barely enough seam allowance there. I'll have to think of something to do with that strap.

I'm a little stuck on a closure for this thing. The original pattern uses snaps, but I am definitely not setting that many snaps by hand or getting a snap setter anytime soon, so that's out. I do have a large supply of D-rings and there's already twill tape straps on this thing, so I'm leaning towards that. The problem is where do I put them? The jacket doesn't fit on my body the same as a dress form, and holding it on while trying to figure out and mark where the straps/rings should go is not fun. I'll probably have to do it though, unless I come up with a better solution.

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